Common questions about saddle fit, tree selection, and our custom western trail saddles. Have a question that isn't answered here? Contact us — we'd love to help.
The biggest difference between a Lite and Leather saddle is the skirt. While the fenders/panel affect weight and cost as well, the skirt has a larger impact.
While we can build a saddle with a leather skirt and synthetic fenders, or a panel if a hybrid is chosen, we typically recommend the opposite. We recommend choosing the Cordura skirt and requesting the fenders/panel be made out of leather, if that is your preference. This is because the skirt does not move as much or receive as much wear and tear as the panel.
Another benefit of the Cordura skirt is that it makes the overall length of the saddle shorter. This is because the fabric does not bear weight like a leather skirt does. The overall length of a leather saddle is 23 inches while the Lite is 21 3/4", for a saddle with a 16" or 17" seat.
The most common reason for a saddle shifting to the side, in my experience, is the tree being too narrow. While the horse may not show any signs of discomfort, the saddle should still clear the spine and 'sit down' nicely. This will allow the saddle to be more stable, which helps the rider stay more balanced.
Another common reason for a saddle to shift to one side is if the horse has a larger/smaller shoulder or if the rider is compensating for some reason. To determine if the horse has a larger/smaller shoulder, stand behind the horse (a step stool may be needed) and look down at the wither. Each shoulder should be mirror images of each other. It is very common for the shoulder to be a different size/shape. If this is the case, a small shim can be used on the smaller shoulder to level the rider out side to side.
Whew, this one is a doozy. There is a lot that goes into a tree…
Everyone seems to get stuck on the gullet measurement. The gullet is one of the few measurements provided by some manufacturers. While the gullet is important, the angle is vital. You can have two trees with the same gullet measurement, but each fits your horse completely differently. For this reason, we request two measurements on the wither tracing (please refer to our How to Measure page for more information). The second measurement requested is the Shoulder Spread or Bar Spread. In my experience, this is the more important measurement and I want this to match the measurement of the tree as closely as possible.
A major difference in trees is the shape of the bar. Some horses and mules have a very straight top line while others need more rock or bend in the tree.
Another consideration is the length of the bar. Some horses have a very short back. If the bar is too long or the wrong shape, it can cause soreness in the lower back / loin.
A gaited tree refers to the shape of the bar. Even though our trees are considered gaited trees, many non-gaited breeds do well in this tree as well. The difference is the shape of the tree at the front and rear points. A gaited tree will have more flare meaning it tapers away from the body more. This is a benefit for horses with large shoulders or very short backs.
This is a very common problem that we are seeing more and more of every day. Our first step is to always check the tree.
The first step is to make sure your horse is standing on flat level ground. He/she needs to be tied, in cross ties, or held by another person. Then, you need to make sure the horse is standing square and not resting on a rear hoof. Next, place the saddle on the horse with no pad or blanket.
Start at the front shoulder and move your hand under the front point. Your hand should move under the front of the tree easily. If you cannot easily move your hand under the skirt, make note and move on to the next step. Another point to notate is the pressure at the top of the tree needs to be the same at the bottom of the tree. You may need to press the skirt with your finger tips to see where the bottom of the bar stops. The bottom needs to make the same amount of contact as the top.
Next, place the stirrup over the seat. Place one hand on the seat pressing down slightly. Move your other hand under the saddle as far up and as far forward as you can. Then, move your hand back towards the horse's rump. You should feel consistent pressure. You may need to do this a couple of times.
Once you are done with the first side, you need to complete all of the same steps on the opposite side of your horse.
You then need to complete these same steps with the blanket or pad you plan to use.
First, locate the last rib. On the back side of the horse's belly, you will see where the horse's hair changes direction (to me it looks like a Y intersection on a road map). You can feel the rib bone in this area and follow it up towards the spine. The tree of your saddle should not extend past the last rib. A little bit past the last rib is ok but if it is more than an inch, it needs to be addressed.
Please do not be confused by the skirt. The skirt may extend past the back edge of the tree several inches. This is ok if the edge of the skirt does not rub the horse's loin.
I'm actually not too familiar with all of the manufacturers that carry a shim pad. There are a couple that I am not a huge fan of. I do not like the shim pads with only two pockets. These often have a seam in the middle of the pocket and you're not able to shim the rib cage correctly. My other issue with some shim pads is the pockets are too deep. I feel like these allow the shims to fall down too much and do not allow the shim to be right under the bar where it is needed.
A saddle will pop up in the back for a couple different reasons. If you have checked the tree, you might try center fire which is also called Y rigging, V rig, etc. This will help stabilize the back of the saddle. Also, a snug rear cinch will help as well.
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